Warhammer 101: The armies- Dark Angels

The Dark Angels are back!

This time on Warhammer 101 I will discuss the newest  Warhammer 40,000 codex: Dark Angels

For those not in the know the Dark Angels are a space marine army.  I have already written a Warhammer 101 article on Space Marines, but I thought I'd give an update on this newest of Codexes.

First the Dark Angels have many units in common with regular Space Marines.  If you have any of the following then you can use them in a Dark Angels army:

Librarian
Chaplain
Space Marine Commander
Command Squad
Tactical Squad
Scout Squad
Rhino
Razorback
Drop Pod
Assault Squad
Dreadnought
Land Raider (all variants)
Predator
Whirlwind
Devastators
Land Speeders (except the Storm variant)


The Dark Angels have two primary differences from the regular Space Marine list.

The Deathwing- Dark Angels have their own Terminator elite troops.  Unlike regular space marines, the Deathwing isn't split up into assault and shooty terminators.  The Deathwing can have all combinations from both the assault and shooty tactical versions (with a few more toys).  It is also worth noting that the Dark Angels don't use power armor veterans (i.e. Sternguard and Vanguard veterans). 

The Ravenwing- This is all the Dark Angel fast stuff.  Land Speeders, bikes, attack bikes, and a few jets.

These all have specialized kits so make sure you get the right ones.

This all begs the question:

"What if I play regular space marines, but I want to use the new shiny codex?"

My answer is use the Dark Angel codex.  It is likely that the next regular Codex Space Marines will be very similar to the Dark Angels.  The Dark Angels Codex is more viable in the current game than the original space marine one.  As long as you don't buy the Ravenwing jets and specialized land speeders everything else will have a place in the next marine codex. 

This then begs the question:

"Can't I just wait?"

Sure, but the Dark Angels are more tactically flexible.  Also you will likely be waiting for a long time.  The next Codex: Space Marines is not currently on any release forecast for this year.  You really don't have anything to lose by using the Dark Angels book.  Only two kits won't be available for the next marine list (Nephilim jet fighter and the  Land Speeder Darkshroud).  Sure you can't use scout bikers or sternguard and vanguard veterans but that's life.  Still recommend the Dark Angel book over the Space Marine book unless you love a special character from the Marine book.

Have fun!

Warhammer 101: The primer on primer

Crazy gamer here with a (hopefully) helpful article on primer.

In the past I've discussed issues such as what different armies bring to the table (hopefully I'll have time to finish those soon), and about the tools you need to clean and assemble your models.  Now I will give a bit of advice about the first step of the painting process.


Everyone should paint their Warhammer armies.  Several noted scientists have discovered that having painted miniatures will make you more successful in life and at least 10 times more attractive to the opposite sex.*

Furthermore 94 of the 100 richest people in the world have at least one painted army.**So it goes without saying that you should paint your models.

Some people get scared of painting, and instead become CCG players (that's collectible card games for those of you who don't speak geek).  This is sad though!  Don't be scared!  You don't have to be Picasso to paint a decent looking army (besides have you seen what that guy painted?  I've seen four year olds paint things that make more sense, but I digress...)

I'm here to help!

The first step to painting is priming.  Priming is an initial layer of  thin matte paint that helps future coats of paint "stick," to your miniature.  This is an essential step but is one that many beginners skip (or are never made aware of) to their detriment. 

Do yourself a favor and prime your models.  If your miniatures could talk they would thank you if you do.

First, pick the type of primer that you want to use:


Spray Primer


Spray primer is the most common type of primer.  It comes in a variety of colors and is made by several different manufactures.  Make sure that the paint can says "primer," because if it doesn't it probably isn't primer.

A few notes:

Spray primer is a tricky beast, even for gaming veterans.  In order to use spray primer you will need a large, ventilated room that is free of anything you don't want primer on.  Spray primer is very very toxic so make sure you have ventilation! 

Next, follow the directions!  Men usually don't like to read directions, but make an exception this time (I won't tell anyone I promise) as this will save you money. 

If you are going to prime, pay attention to the temperature and humidity of where you are at.  If the humidity is more than 50% don't prime!!!!!  You will get a fuzzy texture to your models that is almost impossible to get off and will hurt your final product.  Also, if the temperature is more than 80 degrees and you are priming outside (always a good place because of ventilation) don't prime with black primer in the sun.  The sun will melt your models.  Also, don't prime on a breezy day as you can also get the fuzzy texture described above. 

I'm sure that the paragraph above makes you think that I'm a worry wort (whatever the hell that is) but I can't stress this enough... Plastic models are almost impossible to repair if you prime them incorrectly.  Metal models can be stripped using several substances (interestingly brake fluid is the cheapest and most effective method) but plastic is very difficult to save.  Resin is as difficult as plastic and even more expensive.  The bottom line is: MAKE SURE YOU KNOW WHAT YOU'RE DOING BEFORE YOU START SPRAYING!!!

Helpful tip- if you wear glasses take them off when you prime.  Primer will stick to your lenses.

Because of the inherent difficulty of using spray primer, you may want to consider using hand primer. 

No, I'm not talking about finger painting, this isn't preschool.  You use primer that is in the form of a bottle of paint and apply it with a paint brush.   Do not simply use black or white paint, it should be specifically created as a primer.  Games Workshop makes a decent bottle primer and several other companies do as well. 

Some tips! 

You're not painting during this step.  Use a big brush, the bigger the better. 

With all primer, less is more.  You're much better off applying several thin coats then one thick coat.  Yes it takes more time, but you don't want your miniatures to look like Mr. Potato Head do you? 

Thin the primer down!  It helps avoid applying it too thickly and will help your bottle last longer.  I recommend two parts primer one part water.  What does this mean for you non artists?  Your primer should be the consistency of milk.  It will start off like oil, if you get water you've added too much...well water... I guess this isn't my most poetic blog entry...

At any rate experiment, but know that you won't hurt your miniatures if you get the primer too thin.  Oh!!! but realize the thinner the paint the more it will get all over the place.  Use paper towels and wear clothes that you don't mind getting paint on.


Color:

Primer comes in all shades, but for our purposes only two matter: black and white.

Advantages of white primer:  White primer should be used for armies that have a predominately white color scheme. 

I don't recommend white primer unless you plan on painting a White Scars.  White primer is much more difficult to work with than black primer. 

Advantages of black primer:  Black primer has countless advantages, not least of all:

Gives you a natural shade
Makes mistakes less noticeable
Cool colors paint over it well

And more!

Some artists claim that black primer will not allow a painter to get his or her colors as bright as a white primer.  It is true, but unless you aspire to be a Golden Daemon painter painting a select range of armies, it really won't matter for us average souls.

See you later!

*Not even sort of.  Come on, you thought I was telling you the truth?  I've got a bridge I want to sell you
**Please make a check out to me in the amount of one million dollars.  Don't worry, the bank will know that it's a joke, honest. 

What the Crazy Gamer is looking forward to in 2013

Hello all, I hope the holidays treated you well!

With the arrival of the new year I thought I'd take a minute and tell you what I'm looking forward to playing in 2013.


1. Ni Nu Kuni: Wrath of the White Witch- PS3

This is a RPG from the famed developer Level-5.  Here are some screens:

As a kid I loved cartoons and Wrath of the White Witch is like playing a cartoon!  If you like RPG's then you owe it to yourself to check this out.


2.  Fire Emblem: Awakenings 3DS

Fire Emblem is Nintendo's brutally difficult turn based strategy franchise.  For years the series offered intense strategic challenge, but was hampered by ugly graphics and features that hadn't been updated for decades.  This spring that is set to change as this is looking to have a graphical overhaul and a bunch of new features.  Comes out in early February.

3.  Castlevania Lords of Shadow: Mirror of Fate 3DS

This is the 3DS follow up to 2010's Castlevania Lords of Shadow.  Unlike that title, this goes back to the series roots with a modified side scroll style.  I thought Mercury Steam's first foray into Castlevania was brilliant and I think this will be the same.  This is released in early March.


That's it folks!  I've only included games that I know have a solid release date.  As for other games that don't have solid release dates, I look forward to Luigi's Mansion 2 for 3DS but that's about it. 

Until next time folks!

The Hobbit Game by Games Workshop

The Hobbit Strategy Battle Game: Escape from Goblin Town

Crazy Gamer here to give you a crazy review of Games Workshop’s latest game, The Hobbit Strategy Battle Game: Escape from Goblin Town, from here on out referred to as The Hobbit.

Let’s dive in.

The rules:  The Hobbit is based on the original Lord of the Rings: Strategy Battle Game, which is not to be confused with the War of the Ring games, also released by Games Workshop.  Whew, that’s a lot of titles.  Back to my original point: the Hobbit is essentially a new version of the Lord of the Rings games rules.  The rules are fundamentally the same as LOTR.  In essence, one player plays the good guys (in this case, Thorin’s dwarves) and the other plays the bad guys (the Goblin King and goblins).  Heroes and monsters have special abilities and equipment like their movie counterparts.  Players recreate the movie moments in six scenarios.

This is, of course, just the tip of the iceberg, but I will discuss that in the hobby section.

The rules themselves are easy to learn and are fun.  Most of the rules are identical to the previous version of the LOTR strategy game with some confusing elements refined.  What has changed are more sophisticated moving and shooting mechanics, shooting into and out of terrain, fighting behind obstacles, heroic actions, and monsters.  Monsters have been given new options to use that make them more tactical to use and heroes now have twice as many heroic actions that they can call.

The game has plenty of tactical decisions for players to make - just because the rules are easy to learn doesn’t mean the game is easy to master.  Players must balance the need to modify their dice rolls with calling heroic actions.  The canny player will be rewarded; the careless player will lose regardless of how mighty their models may be.  The game is fun to play if you give it a chance.

The models: Having played miniature games for almost 20 years, I am still amazed by what can be accomplished in plastic these days.  Even if we go back to 2001, when the original LOTR game came out, there were only a handful of poses and none of the models in the basic set were heroes.  The Hobbit game comes with all the members of Thorin’s company, all heroes, plus the Goblin King, 18 different posed goblins times two, plus Goblin Town scenery.  Each member of Thorin’s company is excellently sculpted in the likeness of their movie counterpart.  Thorin’s model has the option of his Oakenshield or Orchrist, while Bilbo can be equipped with Sting if the player wants it.

The goblins, thirty-six of them, are hideous, lumpen, grotesque critters.  The models are nasty, just like in the movies.  The Goblin King is large and imposing, bigger than a cave troll, not quite as big as a Balrog.  Goblin Town itself is functional and includes the goblin scribe and the Goblin King’s throne.

Overall, the miniatures are excellent, coming in at a little over $2 a piece for the collector’s set.

The Hobby: The one weak area of the Hobbit box game is its tight focus on Goblin Town.  All the scenarios revolve around that portion of the movie when the dwarves and Bilbo are in the clutches of the Goblin King.

This can be fun, but players will quickly want to explore other portions of the Hobbit movie.  There are miniatures for other parts of the film (and the other Lord of the Rings movies), but this will require purchasing the hardcover Hobbit rulebook and additional miniatures.

As far as what’s out there for you to collect, gamers can collect all of their favorite characters and can recreate all their favorite events from the movies and books – everything is available from both the Lord of the Rings movies and the Hobbit.

Overall – worth a buy!

Warhammer 101 (Armies Fantasy Flavor) Vampire Counts

Vampire Counts

Crazy Guy here to write about another army article.  This time I will talk about the Warhammer Fantasy army Vampire Counts

Fun Fact, Games Workshop released the Vampire Counts army around the same time as the second to last Twilight movie.  Did GW do this to benefit from the popularity of the Twilight films?

One quick read of the Vampire Counts book will tell you this isn't the case. 

Let me write the Twilight saga if Edward (I cry that I know that) was a Warhammer vampire...

Bella walked to school.  She didn't much like the cold cloudy weather that assailed her as she made the short journey from her dad's house to the brick building that was her new school.  Although she wasn't thrilled with starting a new school she hoped her new classmates were decent.  Teenagers could be nasty if they wanted to be. 

Suddenly a darkness descended, a snaking black cloud to be precise, fell upon the school.  Screams could be heard, carried as it was, on the fell wind.

A figure emerged from the dark cloud, a pale figure on a monstrous dragon. 

Bella locked eyes with the man.  He is so dreamy she thought. 

The dragon descended opening its maw as it did so and swallowed Bella whole. 

The end


Warhammer Vampires are not broody emo guys.  They want to destroy the world with dark magic.

If you start a Vampire Counts you will have:

The worst troops (statistically speaking) in the game

Elite troops that are more expensive than other armies

Powerful, yet vulnerable, leaders

So why would you want to play this army?  Well beyond controlling an army of horror movie monsters yours is the only army (well, except Tomb Kings but they are also undead) that can get your troops back. 

Skeletons, zombies, ghouls, wights, whatever can be summoned back to the battlefield using Necromantic magic.  You will lose a lot of models, but unlike other armies you can get those guys back.

The army is considered a solidly mid range list.  You will be able to compete and be successful.  The range is largely new so you will not have to worry about new models replacing the models you just bought. 

Older kits that COULD be replaced soon include vampire bats, Blood Knights, the Black Coach, bat swarms, but that's about it.

Painting is pretty easy, kits are nice.

Be aware that a Vampire Counts army is MORE expensive then the average army.  Why?  Since you can summon models back and add models to your units that weren't originally purchased for the army you will need extra models.  Games Workshop's rule is once you don't have any more models left then you can't summon anymore. 

A note on Zombies:

I'll leave you with this, if you want to play this army and you don't play in an officially marked GW store, you may want to look into alternative companies for zombie models.  Mantic games makes a good set as does reaper miniatures.  The GW zombie kit is a weaker kit and isn't likely to get replaced anytime soon.  Just FYI.

Coming Soon!

Coming this week! 


My review of the Hobbit: Unexpected Journey Strategy battle game

and

Crazy Gamer Story TIme!


Check back for these fun articles.

Warhammer 101: Tools of the trade

Hello all,

Sorry for the long delay in getting back to you.  I have journeyed long and far to a strange land to partake in local rituals of consumption.  I traveled through arid desert where rocks teetered upon other larger rocks until they reached the heavens.  For long hours I thought that perhaps the whole world was nothing but dirt and sand but then suddenly a temperate climate appeared with trees, and grass, and, and... water.

But I am back...

In my Warhammer 101 series I have discussed several armies.  This time I will discuss several tools that every gamer needs. 

These tools are necessary for you to get the most out of your models.  Citadel Miniatures do not come assembled.  You have to do this for yourself.  If you make sure that you have the proper tools you will reduce your frustration.

First, you need a knife

No, no no

Not this kind of a knife, you're not fighting off pirates!  You need this kind:

This kind of knife is used to clean off mold lines on models.

What are mold lines? 

(Face palm)

See that line that runs down the models leg.  That is a mold line.  It looks bad in plastic, when you are painting it's even worse.  A knife will get rid of this.

It is also wise to purchase a set of small files.  These are good for metal miniatures primarily.  The metal will dull your knife quickly so files will save you money on blades.  You can use files on plastic miniatures as long as you are delicate with it.  Under no circumstance should you use a file on Citadel Fincast miniatures. 

Glue:

Adhesives are a sticky subject (badah boom, I'll be here all week.) with different models needing different glues.  Let's look.

First- Super Glue

Super glue is used on metal models and resin models.  I advise that you use a super glue gel as pure super glue has the consistency of water which makes it difficult to work with.

Some things to note:

Less is more with all glue, but especially super glue as the more you use the longer it will take to dry.  Too much super glue will leave a white residue on your model. 

Super glue is strong but it will not hold a piece if that piece is too big or heavy.  As a good rule of thumb if the piece was thrown at you and you think it would really hurt, it probably needs something stronger.  Look for my advanced modeling techniques coming soon.

Usually warnings on products are just for stupid people, but as the wise man once said "There are two types of people who use super glue; those who have glued their fingers together and those who will glue their fingers together."  Watch what you are gluing, it will take only a second for your fingers to glue together and boy is it painful getting them apart (your knife is good for that also by the way)

Super glue WILL ruin whatever it touches that isn't your model.  Clothes, carpet, wood, plastic, whatever.  Make sure you use the glue in an area that has protection against the glue. 

2.  Plastic glue

This is a catch all for several different substances that are designed to glue plastic.  Games Workshop does offer a decent plastic glue. 

Some things of note:

Plastic glue will only work on plastic models.

Some types of plastic glue actually melt part of the plastic to create adhesion, be very careful to make sure that what you are gluing together actually should be glued together.  Plastic glued models are more difficult to break apart then metal ones.


Elmers White Glue

White glue like Elmers has a use.  Your models bases will need to be flocked or given sand.  In order to put this on your models you need white glue like Elmers.  There is no other modeling use for this glue so one small bottle will last you for a long time.